VITA VISSUTA

Laksa is one of Singapore’s most iconic dishes, a rich and spicy noodle soup that reflects the country’s multicultural heritage. Rooted in Peranakan cuisine—a fusion of Chinese and Malay culinary traditions—laksa typically features thick rice vermicelli immersed in a coconut milk-based broth infused with a fragrant blend of spices and herbs. Common toppings include cockles, prawns, fish cakes, bean sprouts, and a generous dollop of sambal chili paste.

Among the many variations of laksa found across Singapore, Sungei Road Laksa stands out as a historic and beloved institution. Established in 1956 by brothers Wong Yew Poh and Wong Yew Hwa, the stall began as a humble pushcart along Sungei Road, an area once renowned for its bustling Thieves’ Market. The brothers were entrusted with a secret laksa recipe by their Hainanese friend, Ah Tong, which they adapted and perfected over the years. Their version of laksa is distinctive for its lighter, less coconut-rich broth compared to traditional Nonya laksa, yet it retains a deep, savory flavor profile. 

What sets Sungei Road Laksa apart is its commitment to tradition. The stall continues to use a charcoal fire to keep the gravy warm, a method that imparts a unique smoky aroma to the dish. The laksa is served in classic chicken motif bowls, with the noodles cut into shorter lengths so that customers can enjoy the meal using only a spoon—a nod to the original street-side dining experience. This approach not only preserves the authenticity of the dish but also evokes a sense of nostalgia among patrons. 

Today, Sungei Road Laksa operates from a modest stall at 27 Jalan Berseh, under block 25, within the Jin Shui Kopitiam. Despite its easygoing location, the stall attracts long queues daily, a testament to its enduring popularity. Priced at an affordable S$4 per bowl, it offers a taste of Singapore’s culinary history that is both accessible and deeply satisfying. 

Needless to say, I was there today 🤪🤪🤪